Used Car Test Drive Quick Facts
- If you don’t plan on paying cash, get prequalified for a car loan before going on a test drive.
- Listen to how the car sounds when on a used car test drive. Turn on the air, put the windows up and down, and check for water damage.
- Get a professional car inspection for peace of mind.
You’re ready for a used car test drive. You’ve done your research, narrowed your list, and honed it to perhaps just a few cars. Now it’s time to take that car out for a spin. In addition to making sure you’re comfortable in the car and that it meets your financial requirements, there are many things to pay close attention to when test driving.
Most importantly, trust your gut. If something seems off about the used car even before a test drive, it very well might be. Don’t be afraid to speak up to the seller or the selling dealer, and do a pre-purchase inspection, especially on a fancier or more complicated car. In the grand scheme of things, an hour or two of a knowledgeable mechanic’s time could save you a small fortune.
Trust your judgment and use these essential tips below when taking a used car test drive.
Steps to Take on a Used Car Test Drive
Before testing the used car you’re interested in, get preapproved for a loan at a bank or credit union. Knowing how much car you can afford sets you up to make a deal on the spot if the car feels right. Also, it helps keep you competitive in a tight used car market. Use the tips below for the test drive, and don’t forget to do a professional vehicle inspection. Be extra vigilant during a test drive when buying a car from a private owner.
1. Listen Closely
Does the car make any sounds that seem out of the ordinary? Any vehicle built within the last decade or two should emit little more than a gentle rumble under the hood and a small amount of tire noise.
Whining noises often indicate a faulty pulley or belt, while grumbling might come from the engine or transmission. A gnashing sound — you’ll know it when you hear it — suggests an issue with the transmission, the driveline, or one of the wheels. Odds are any sound that catches your attention will be costly to repair, and that’s where a mechanic’s opinion could prove valuable.
2. Start With Low Speeds
At low speeds, you’re looking to see that the steering returns to the center quickly and predictably. If it’s slow, that indicates there may be excessive suspension or tire wear. Listen and feel the suspension. You don’t want to hear clunks, and you definitely don’t want to feel them. Generally, suspension clunks aren’t as expensive to rectify as you might think, but replacing worn bushings and linkages can add up, and that work often requires special tools.
Next, hit the brakes. The pedal should feel linear and responsive, with some travel before a hard grab. Try braking both gently and then with vigor, and watch to make sure the car doesn’t pull to one side or the other.
3. Now Get Up to Speed
Give the car a little gas to get to highway speeds. Depending on what’s under the hood, it may move pretty quickly. Any modern car should have no issue keeping up with traffic.
At speed, you’ll want to ensure the car tracks straight and doesn’t tug to one side or the other and that the steering wheel doesn’t shake around. A vehicle that pulls to one side or vibrates through the steering wheel suggests alignment or balance issues. This is generally an easy fix, but it can indicate that the car has been wrecked or that its previous owner was careless about maintenance.
Also, listen closely for any unexpected noises — whine from the drivetrain, air around the windows, or grumbling from underneath the hood.
4. Look Around You
It’s hard to determine engine wear unless you’ve had your mechanic dive deep into what’s under the hood, but there are a few telltale signs of problems. When you’re accelerating, look in the rearview mirror. If you see smoke — no matter the color — that can be a reason for concern.
That said, cars that have sat for a while and turbocharged vehicles can often puff a little dark blue or black smoke under acceleration. This isn’t necessarily a red flag, though it’s worth talking to a mechanic well-versed in the vehicle brand you’re testing to see what constitutes an average amount of visible exhaust emissions.
One final thing to look for is any water spots, rust, or signs of water damage. If a car got damaged in a flood, it’s best to walk away from the vehicle.
5. Test Everything
The test drive is the ideal opportunity to test every vehicle function. Put the windows up and down from every switch, hit the door lock buttons, work the climate control to ensure that air is distributed as the dials or buttons indicate, feel if the air is cold or hot, try various sound system functions — the list goes on.
Nobody will judge better what functions work and what don’t than you. So, don’t be afraid to push every button. For instance, if a window is loud or notchy going up or down, that suggests that a regulator needs replacement, which can be expensive.
If buying an electric vehicle, make sure to ask how the EV charges and up to what percentage. Batteries lose capacity over time. It’s best to avoid getting caught with any surprises.
Now that you’ve taken the test drive, make sure to ask if the vehicle is still under warranty and do your research to know if it’s transferable.
Read Related Articles:
- How to Check for Recalls When Buying a Used Car
- 6 Smells That Can Be Warning Signs When Buying a Used Car
- Should You Walk Away from a Used Car Extended Warranty?
Editor’s Note: This article has been updated for accuracy since it was originally published.
I was told long ago to not be turned off because a vehicle isn’t spotless, but to be cautious if it’s been heavily reconditioned and “showroom new”.
If it is from a dealer, always ask for a CarFax report. It will tell you where the car has been and whether there are accidents in its history.
Carfax is A good tool but it only reflects what has been reported to it. I had a 2017 Rav4 leaser and had an accident with over $3000 in damage/repair, including suispension repair. Carfax submitted by the dealer after the lease was uip showed minor damage. I called Carfax and was told they used the amount the traffic officer wrote in the accident report, $600. I sent Carfax pioctures and the repair report, and they updated the report.
I agree with the comment above. I also bought a car that had a clean Carfax only to realize later that the left rear quarter panel was heavily damaged and repaired and not reported. I only found out after it was rear ended and the amount of Bondo was amazing! Of course the dealer, denied responsibility totally even though they used the Clean Carfax as a sale tool.
Alright, you should work for Consumer Protection.
I have bought and sold quite a few used cars, and very good advice above.
Another thing to add to the gut feeling above is what I call the water test.
Look at the bolts holding the seats down. These are the lowest point on the interior
of the car. Along with a visual inspection under the car, you can get a pretty good
idea whether the car has had water damage in the past.
Another point is normal wear areas, to see if they match the miles listed.
I was looking for a standard shift car and saw some that had a lot of seat wear, and
wear to the shifter but showed very low miles. A car that has 30K on the odometer
should not have a steering wheel that looks like one driven 130K.
Make certain the tires are round.
Look at the trunk or rear compartment if it’s an SUV. If it’s neat, the car has been taken care of and pampered a bit. Junky, the owner didn’t care.